Me 262 HG III
Amusing Hobby (48A003)
1:48

The Messerschmitt Me 262 was a German World War II fighter aircraft built in the later stages of the war, and under license by Avia post-war. Messerschmitt began work on a single-seat jet-powered fighter before the start of World War II. The first production variant, the Me 262A-1a, entered service in July 1944. This variant, nicknamed Schwalbe (German: "Swallow"), was powered by two 8.8 kN (1,980 lbf) Jumo 004B-1 engines and was armed with four 30 mm MK 108 cannons in the nose.

In April 1941, Adolf Busemann proposed that a 35° swept wing be fitted to the Me 262. Although this was not implemented, it did lead to the development of the Hochgeschwindigkeit ("high-speed") project to improve the Me 262's speed. In 1944, the Me 262 V9 prototype was modified with a low profile canopy, known as the Rennkabine ("racing cabin"), as the Hochgeschwindigkeit I, or Me 262 HG I.

The more radical Hochgeschwindigkeit II (Me 262 HG II) proposal was to feature a new 35° swept wing with engines moved closer to the fuselage and a V-tail, though this was changed back to a conventional tail after wind tunnel tests showed that the V-tail was unstable. The Hochgeschwindigkeit III (Me 262 HG III) was to have a 45° swept wing and Heinkel HeS 011 engines in the wing roots. Neither of these projects were built.

Amusing Hobby have quietly been working to tap into the popular Luft '46 market. I do not consider myself to be a "what-if" builder, but I do like Luft '46 as this genre is mostly based on actual drawings or prototypes known to have existed, plus they mostly look cool.

So far they have released three 1:48 aircraft kits, with more planned for 2024 and each is a Luft '46 subject. After completing my Amusing Hobby 1:48 Focke Wulf Triebflügel (48A001) Review back in 2019, I remember being impressed with the tooling and quality of that kit. I've subsequently obtained the Weserflug P.1003/1 VTOL (48A002) and now this Me262 HGIII (48A003)

Amusing Hobby have chosen a cream/tan coloured plastic. This looks a bit odd in the box but when building I found it to be easy to work with. The Me262 HGIII kit is contained on two main sprues with a single small clear sprue, with a noticeably lower parts count for a 1:48 model when compared to the likes of Eduard or Airfix. This is not a bad thing and often leads to a faster, easier build.

Amusing Hobby provide two fictional marking schemes in the box. Both are based on late war Luftwaffe colors of RLM 70/81 and 81/82. You can pretty much let your imagination run free here as these aircraft were never built, let alone enter active service.

The decal sheet is fairly small and for the most part generic in nature, which is to be expected given the subject matter. The decals are printed by Amusing Hobby and appear to be quite thin and in-register. As is common practice, the swastika is broken into multiple parts.

For the most part I prefer to have my aircraft canopies open, if I display them on the ground. The only time I close them up is when I pose the model in flight. Amusing Hobby provides only a closed option for the main canopy and so I had to decide early on whether to model the Me262HG in flight or cut the canopy open. Thankfully the cut lines needed for the second option were all straight and this made my decision an easy one. When cutting I like to have some visual guide in place so make it easier to see where the blade needs to go. For this I use some flexible Tamiya vinyl tape as it's easy to apply around curves and offers some minor resistance to the blade. It's not meant to be a physical guide because the razor saw would easily cut through the tape if I was not paying attention.

Once the canopy was separated from the front windshield and rear shroud a simple right-angle mounting support was built from plastic card. This allowed the canopy to be held securely in the open position on the starboard cockpit sill.

It becomes obvious that the kit canopy is quite thick once you cut it apart. There really isn't an easy way to correct this, short of vac-forming a new one yourself, so in this case I will live with it. Some extra details such as the grab handle and support brace inside the open canopy will be added later on.

When fully open the canopy lower edges sit at 90 degrees. My scratchbuilt hinge is held in place by a slot in the sill which was added also using plastic card. In this way I can remove the canopy during assembly and painting and slot it into place at the end of the build.

The kit cockpit is very well appointed out-of-the-box. No belts are included so you will want to make your or purchase a set from Quinta or HGW. I was impressed that Amusing Hobby provided the rear of the main instruments because this area is quite visible on the Me 262 (through the forward armoured windshield)

Being late war, the cockpit color of the Me 262 was RLM 66. The cockpit itself seems to be very tidy with minimal clutter.

Wishing to enhance the rear of the main IP, I drilled holes into the back of each instrument and added 0.25 and 0.3mm copper wire. One easy technique when working with copper wire is to "anneal" it first to soften the metal. Once softened the copper is far more malleable resulting in far more natural bends and twists without kinking. To anneal copper, you expose it a naked flame (say a BBQ lighter or similar) and heat until it glows orange. Remove the flame and let the metal cool slowly (just sit it down until it is cold to the touch). Do not cool it quickly (by dunking in water) as this will harden the copper, making it brittle.

A quick test fit of the cockpit and windshield reveals the "method in my madness" as now we will have a good view of the cabling through the clear parts.

Changing gears, I next turned my attention to the landing gear (undercarriage). The Me 262 employed hydraulically activated main brakes and the flexible piping was threaded through the hollow tubular axle. As you might expect, Amusing Hobby do not provide this detail and I wanted to see if I could fabricate it from scratch.

After a bit of head scratching and experimenting I settled on using styrene tube for the axle and 0.3mm Invisible Nylon Thread for the hydraulic lines. I prefer the flexibility and springiness of nylon for such work as I find it bends more realistically than copper or lead wire. I also needed a scale "three-way" connector and a digital download of ANYZ's 3D Connectors T-Type (AND054) for 3 euro's allowed me to print up a lifetime supply.

A dry fit of the main gear into their mounting points showed me that the fit is excellent and alignment close to perfect. As I considered the kit wheels to be too thin and the hubs poorly detailed, I replaced them with a spare set of True Details resin wheels.

The kit nose gear needed no major adjustments and fits snugly into the gear bay. I did however add a single brake line, this time using annealed copper. The kit nosewheel was very respectable and I will use it rather than the one from the True Details resin set (which is the smooth tread version).

As usual in my builds, I like to drop the elevators (and often flaps). In this case it meant a clean straight cut and then re-adding the counter-balance from 60 thou card strip. A quick and dirty way to get the desired droop angle is to sand the leading edge of the separated elevator and then glue it back in place.

The interior of the Me 262 was very open and so much of it is visible through the gear bay openings. Amusing Hobby has made not effort to give us any kind of structural details and so I used some Evergreen 10 x 20 thou strip. It's all guesswork and is only meant to "busy" up the open bay when viewed from below.

I worked my way along the interior surfaces adding ribbing at what seemed like the most logical places and in short order things looked a bit more interesting. It's worth mentioning that the fit of all the interior parts is very good with most sub-assemblies clicking into alignment.

The HG III variant would have had pretty standard air intakes and Amusing Hobby provide this in two halves (top and bottom). To deal with the resulting seam I applied several brushed on coats of Mr Surfacer 500 and when dry each layer was sanded smooth using GodHand Kamiyasu Sanding Sponge #600-2mm. I like these flexible sanding sticks as they easily conform to circular shapes such as intakes and exhausts. The progress was checked using Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500.

The unique shape of the HG III has led Amusing Hobby to engineer the tail of the kit in two horizontal halves (left and right) whilst the main fuselage is top and bottom halves. The join between the tail and fuselage means we have some seams and rivet runs that need some attention. I have recently started to use VMS FLEXY 5K CA Super Glue (BLACK) as a filler as I like how the black tint provides an obvious visibile indication of where the glue/filler remains after sanding. Of course, as with any seam work, the only way to know for sure is to use a light coat of primer, in my case Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray

As I was getting close to laying down some interior paint, it was now time for masking. Whenever I display a canopy open I make a point of masking and painting the interior framing as well as the exterior. My weapons of choice for hand masking (as opposed to the increasingly popular pre-cut masks) is plain old Tamiya tape (1mm, 2mm and 3mm most often in 1:48) and liquid Mr. Masking Sol R for those tiny fiddly bits where tape won't fit.

The cockpit interior was now finished in RLM 66 Schwarzgrau using my favourite paint for airbrushing MRP-059. Once dry I applied the Quinta Studio QD48300 Me262 HGIII 3D-Printed & coloured Interior set and was happy that in this case the Quinta RLM 66 and the MRP RLM 66 matched very closely. I have found this to not always be the case.

One feature of the new 3D printed decal interiors from Quinta/Red Fox/Kelik/... is that they end up with a semi-gloss finish, which is often not very scale accurate (ie they look to shiny). My solution is to flat coat the whole set (once installed) and then pick out the dial glass faces by hand using a gloss or semi gloss clear. This to my eye helps to tie the 3D vinyl parts to the rest of the cockpit.

WW2 era seats had rudimentary safely belts. For the most part these were fairly standard across aircraft from each country. The Luftwaffe used belts from cloth/fabric and leather in most of it's fighter aircraft, the Me 262 being no exception.

There are many ways to reproduce scale aircraft belts, but one of the most realistic I have found would have to be the fabric sets from HGW Models. These belts are provided as separate fabric straps with the buckles in PE. You literally have to assemble the belt just like the real thing. One tip I have learnt is that it's much easier to thread the fabric straps through the buckles which still attached to the PE fret. Trying to do it the other way around and thread the PE buckle over the strap is a good way to loose your sanity (and the PE buckle) very fast !!

It's time consuming and painstaking work, but the results speak for themselves. HGW make belts in 1:48 and 1:32 for a wide array of WW2 and Modern aircraft. They seem to be readily available at most online hobby shops or you can purchase from HGW Direct.

The cockpit is mostly complete at this stage and I have applied a few layers of enamel washes and pigments to represent the theater of operation my Me 262 MH III would have operated in. As I use more of the 3D cockpit decal sets I have started to make a point of applying a general flat clear coat over all the parts, including the instrument glass, as I find the vinyl parts are too shiny. The flat coat helps reduce this distracting shine and blend the parts into the cockpit tub. The instrument glass is easily re-instated using a small brush and some clear gloss.

Paint is now applied to the fuselage interior. All parts are primed in black using Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black and then a coat of AK Real Color RC933 RLM 02 RLM-Grau (1941)

The intakes and general engine parts are finished in Alclad II Aluminium 101 which is a lacquer paint making it very resilient to masking and washing. At the tail end of the engine is a small exhaust outlet which I also painted in Alclad 101 Aluminium over which I applied a couple of heavy enamel washes to give it a distressed look. Very little of the exhaust will be seen once the fuselage is joined so I did not boil the ocean here.

The top and bottom halves are now ready for final gluing. It occurs to me that a lot more detailing could have been added to the interior but I have found myself being less inclined to spend effort in such places these days, preferring to save that for exterior work which will be far more appreciated on the finished model.

One last task, which must not be forgotten, is to add weight to the nose. Most model aircraft that employ a tricycle undercarriage layout (with a nosewheel rather than a tailwheel) will need weight in the nose to keep the model from sitting on it's tail. There are many ways to add weight to the forward parts of aircraft models, the one which I use these days is 2mm lead shot, which are small enough to fit into all the nooks and crannies of the model interior.

The lead shot needs to be secured in place using some form of adhesive. The two most popular methods I have seen used are two-part epoxy glue or CA (Super) glue. I have also used epoxy resin to hold the weight but in this case I was concerned the thin resin would leak out the nosewheel bay making a mess. I therefore chose a 5 minute two part epoxy glue which is much more viscus. As it is winter here in Australia at the moment my Pacer ZAP Z-Poxy 5 Mins glue was cold and thicker than optimal. A simple way to make the glue more runny is to warm the two parts in boiling water for 5 mins before use.

With all the interior parts in order, the two fuselage halves are mated and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is carefully applied along the seam. The Tamiya cement is perfect for uses where you want to apply the cement after the parts are already together. It is thin enough to run into the gaps between parts such as the Me 262 fuselage and wings. When using slower setting styrene glues I like to use clamps to ensure parts don't move as the glue cures. The red clamps I am using here are Hobby Mio Soft-Pad Clamps and the tips can swivel to better accomodate awkward shapes, often found on aircraft models. The only place I found where a small gap occurred was on the starboard engine rear nacelle. I think was a problem of my own making as I dont recall seeing during dry fitting, but once I got to this point I decided it was better to leave it and then fill later and sand smooth.

For the most part the fit of the Amusing Hobby parts are excellent. As with any kit, the manufacturer has to make design decisions to achieve a balance between accuracy and ease of assembly. All plastic models will inevitably have part join seams that need to be dealt with, and its really down to how many and where they are placed which can make all the difference between an enjoyable vs horrible build experience. The two main parts of this kit which require some patience and effort are the intakes and the seam on the nose sections.

The nose seam runs from the wing roots to the nose tip and has an unusual "kink" in it. It unfortunately runs across several panel lines and rivet runs, most of which will be damaged as we work to fill and sand away the seam. This is all part of the joy of scale modelling. I have found that in such cases applying a black panel wash to the plastic helps me to clearly see the surface detail so I can better work on it before and after sanding.

I had intended to leave the seam around the lip of the intakes as provided by Amusing Hobby. However once I saw how it looked it decided that both the interior and exterior joins needed to be removed. A suitable filler was needed that could fill the fairly large gaps and be blended into a smooth surface over which I would be painting natural metal.

The best choice to tackle the seams and gaps around the ariframe and in particular the intakes was a mix of superglue and filler. I have used many cheap and expensive CA based glues over the years but at the moment my favourite is the VMS Flexy 5K CA family of modelling glues. VMS provides these in several use-specific flavours including PE, Thin, Slow, Resin and 3D. When you want to use CA glue as a putty/filler as opposed to a straight cement, you can use VMS CA Glue Filler fine powder which when mixed with CA glue turns it into a fast curing putty you can use for instant gap filling much like the standard putty but without the usual wait.

The VMS Filler is simply a white powder which you mix with a small pool of the CA glue. This feels and looks like a milky paste and is very easy to apply the model where you need it. The largish joins in the intake lip were filled with the putty and left for 30 mins to cure before sanding. I also used the putty on the nose and engine nacelle seams.

One new tool that I have started to use more frequently is the DSPIAE ES-A Electric Reciprocating Sanding Pen. This tool is a cordless battery operated sander with 8 interchangeable heads of varying shapes and sizes. I got one as I thought it would be useful for hard to reach places where your fingers are too big, such as engine intakes and exhausts. The tool comes with self adhesive pre-cut sheets of grit ranging from 180 to 1000 which you can stick onto the shaped heads. I would not consider this an essential tool, but like most specialist tools, it's hard to beat when you really need it.

After some careful sanding, re-scribing and riveting the surface detail along the nose seam has been repaired. I added most of the detail back and once I again the black wash helps to keep track of what requires more attention. These parts are now ready for a coat of grey primer for my final checks.

The four 30mm cannon ports on the nose are blanked off by Amusing Hobby so I opened then up using a 0.9mm drill bit. It's a small detail but and easy one to fix.

The empennage (tail) is separate to the main fuselage/wings and has a traditional left/right seam. This completed sub-assembly is now offered up to the fuselage with the resulting join being on a natural panel line. There was a very small lip as the join was not perfect but it was so small that I chose not to sand it and have to deal with all the repair work. The seams along the wing roots were removed as these are not actual panel lines. Riveting work along the top and bottom was handled by a 0.65mm GALAXY Riveting Wheel.

More seam and riveting work was needed on the bottom tail. Having lots of nice surface detail is good, but means more work when you need to deal with seams.

Step 4 the clear plastic was now sanded and shaped to match the contour of the wing tip. I started with 400 grade for the rough work, then switched to 600 grade for the last shaping work. Once happy with the final shape I used GodHand GH-KS2-KB Kami-Yasu Migaki Sanding/Polishing Sponges which range from #4000 to #10000 grit to buff and polish the clear sprue to a glass finish.

After a final check of the seam-work with grey primer, it was now time to mask up the intakes, exhausts, wheel bays and cockpit. I have become a fan of using soft packing foam (the sort you find in Eduard Brassin sets) for masking awkward shaped opening like wheel bays. The soft foam is springy and easily pushed into the shape and it makes a firm fit. Sometimes you need to use a small section of tape for a hard edge, but more often than not even this is not needed.

When masking cockpit openings I use small sections of 1mm and 2mm Tamiya tape. If I feel it's needed I also will seal the edges of the assorted pieces of tape with a brushed on coat of a PVA and water mix. This is enough to stop the tape from lifting when you are not watching and letting some stray paint into the cockpit.

For the "accessories" such as the landing gear doors I use some rolled up tape to hold them in place ready for spraying. Note that I do not use expensive Tamiya tape for this but the more cost effective FrogTape Delicate Surface Painter's Tape.

All through the build process I have been thinking about how I wanted my Me 262 HG III to be painted. I did not really like either of the Amusing Hobby schemes and I am very partial to the Luftwaffe North Africa colors of RLM 79 Sandgelb / RLM 80 Оlivgrün over RLM 76 Lightblau. For some inspiration I picked a couple of the brilliant Luft 46 profiles by Peter Allan. These were helpful to get the creative juices flowing.

As both the RLM 76 and RLM 79 are what I would consider "light" shades, my process is to start with a dark primer, in this case Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black. For the finishing of this model I used three different airbrushes, each for a specific purpose. To start with, for laying down general overall coats, like base/primer and finishing clears, my airbrush of choice is a GSI Creos Mr. Procon Boy PS-290 Trigger. This brush is basically like a mini spray gun, but it has a 0.5mm nozzle (which is actually not that big). The shape of the needle tip is the magic ingredient which allows you to spray almost like a rattle can, but with far more control. This brush is ideal for laying down super smooth coats of paint when you have a decent surface area to cover. When the Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black is thinned with Gunze T117 Mr Rapid Thinner it dries to a silky smooth semi gloss finish, perfect for your next coat of paint.

I was now ready to lay down the first top/color coat. For this I selected AK Real Color RC321 RLM 76 Version 2, thinned with GSI Creos T108 Mr Color Leveling Thinner. For applying this coat I switched to what I consider my workhorse airbrush, the Iwata Revolution CR (4247). This is also a 0.5mm brush, however the tip is a very fine point (unlike the Mr Procon PS-290) and this allows you to be able to paint down to a very fine line if needed. I like this brush as I can open it up and paint largish areas or step it down and do fine work. It is not expensive and the Revolution series is the first in the Iwata range that have PTFE (Teflon) seals so you will not have to worry about internal rubber seals swelling when using lacquer paints.

At this point I needed to make some decisions about how the main top colors would be handled. I had previously built an Eduard 1:48 Bf 109E-7 Trop and decided to try to mimic the color demarcations. This means hard masks where the wing met the fuselage and later on the top of the fuselage. Thin Tamiya tape was used to follow the gently curved panel line and then the cheaper Frog Tape to back fill. First color was RLM 79 Sandgelb and for this I switch away from AK Real Color to MRP. AK RC have two shades of RLM 79 (early and late) and I find their early shade far too yellow. The MRP-068 RLM 79 Sandgelb I was lightly sprayed over the black primer in a random fashion to give a non-uniform finish. The MRP acrylic lacquers are pre-thinned for airbrushing and are in my opinion the best model paints available.

Once the RLM 79 was dry, I switched to my third airbrush, an Iwata Eclipse HP-BS Gravity Feed. This is a 0.3mm brush and I like it for very fine work, such as the camouflage mottles needed next. When working close up with the airbrush I step down the air pressure and thin the paint a little more. For the first mottle shade I chose AK Real Color RC324 RLM 81 Version 2 as this had a nice brown shade to it. AK has no less than 3 versions of RLM 81 Braunviolet, as like many things during the war, specifications and paint formulas changed to meet evolving requirements. As I was building a "what-if" I had the luxury of choosing the shade of RLM 81 that appealed to me the most.

As I wanted a two tone mottle, the next color was the pretty standard RLM 80 Оlivgrün. I chose to stick with the AK paint, selecting AK RC948 RLM 80 using their own RC702 High Compatibility Thinner. If you look closely you can see I have tried to slightly change the shape of the green mottles to be more circular, this way you get the color difference and the more subtle shape change. At this point I was pretty happy with the look of it.

With the wings complete, I could now mask the upper fuselage spine ready for some RLM 79. This time the edge using masked using thin sausages made from Bostik Blu Tack. The flexible and low tack Blu Tack is ideal for this type of masking and can handle curves and bends with ease. Tape is then used to backfill to avoid overspray. These Blu Tack sausages were rolled to approximately a 3mm diameter which results is a very clean demarcation with little or no feathering.

Once the Blu Tack and masking is removed the mottling is added to the fuselage, this time running down the side of the fuselage, over the top of the RLM 76 Light Blue. As you can see I have also now added some white and yellow (RLM 04) identification bands on the nose, tail and wingtips.

I have always liked the strong visual impact of RLM 04 Yellow on the nose and rudder of Luftwaffe aircraft, so I indulged myself and added both white and yellow as typically seen on North African theatre Bf 109's.

The all blue underside was looking very clean and monotone at this point. This would change shortly but first it was time for decaling. I like to apply a light coat of gloss clear to protect the paint for future washes and weathering as well as giving the decals an optimal bed to lay on. As my washes tend to be enamel and/or oil based the gloss clears I tend use are either acrylic or lacquer based. In this case I loaded up the GSI Creos Mr. Procon Boy PS-290 Trigger with moderately thinned Tamiya Lacquer LP-9 Clear. Two thin coats were applied over the entire airframe.

Decals were next, being a mix of spares and national markings taken from generic sheets. It's worth mentioning that I did not use any of the Amusing Hobby decals as the crosses looked too small and the swastikas those overly complex multi-part efforts. I normally use my tried and true MicroSet and MicroSol when decaling, however I had recently purchased some of the VMS Decal Set & Fix + Softener so was interested to try these out.

The VMS Set & Fix solution did not seem that much different to the other brands of Set I have used, but the VMS Softener was a different story altogether. Man this stuff is strong. All of the mix of decals I used on this model were no match for the VMS Softener as it set about first crinkling them and then pulling them perfectly into all the recessed rivet and panel detail. I only had one small casualty, the ink on the "green dragon" nose art on the port side seemed to blead and when I applied a second coat of the VMS Softener with a brush it damaged the printing on the lower jaw. Nothing much I could do about it, so I put it on the "live and learn" list. Overall I was very impressed with the result of the VMS Softener and will be using it again.

Experience has taught me to leave decals alone for at least 24 hrs to cure fully before sealing them with another lite coat of Tamiya Lacquer LP-9 Clear. Once the clear was dry I was good to go with the panel wash. For this I selected Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (Dark Brown) as I felt it would be a suitable match for the sand and blue colored paint.

I have created a detailed guide to how I do my Aircraft Panel Line Washes: Step-By-Step. One of the most critical choices in this process is the solvent you use to remove the excess wash. The rule of thumb should be use the weakest solvent you can obtain. I have found that White Spirit is the best option as it is a very gentle hydrocarbon solvent and will remove enamel/oil products without being so harsh as to damage the underlying paint or decals. Never ever use strong solvents, like thinners, to try and remove the excess wash.

It always impresses how a simple wash can bring a model to life. The previous boring monotone blue under surfaces are now transformed and are popping with all that delicious detail that Amusing Hobby went to the trouble to add. I don't even consider this step to be part of the weathering of a model, more an easy way to add some true 3D aspects to an otherwise 2D surface.

It's important to take your time to get the panel line wash right. Often I need to go back over some sections to re-do the wash to make sure it is consistent. To remove the wash I have found simple paper towel with a drop of white spirit is enough to gently clean of the excess wash. For awkward spots use the tip of a cotton bud diped in White Spirit.

It's worth taking a close look at the rivet and panel line detail on and around the decals. You can see clearly how well the VMS Softener has done its job at getting those decals into every nook and cranny. The panel line wash tends to reveal all the decal flaws and in this case I'm happy with how well the decals have settled. The final step for the main airframe is a flat coat to tone down the gloss clear. My current favourite is Mr Color GX114 Super Smooth Clear Flat Lacquer. The name says it all as this clear gives a beautiful smooth finish and is not overly matt, just enough to take the shine out of the previous gloss layers.

With the main work done, the masking can be reomved, final cleanup handled and all the "breakable" bits like undercarriage and aerials added. Here are a couple of final photos to show how it all ended up. I decided to not go heavy with the weathering and oil stains, I think it still looks "plausible" for a what-if. For all the final photos jump over to the Amusing Hobby 1:48 Me 262 HG III - Gallery

This was a very enjoyable, trouble free build. Amusing Hobby have done a good job of providing Luft 46 modellers with a modern tooled injection kit.

Building a subject where you can let you imagination out for a spin is also refreshing as sometimes you get a bit stale, slavishly counting rivets and checking reference sources for accuracy. What-if's give you more freedom to unleash your creativity.

This is my first Amusing Hobby build but I doubt it will be my last. Highly recommended.

For more photos of the final model, jump over to the Amusing Hobby 1:48 Me 262 HG III - Gallery